Scout II Hand Throttle
John Landry gave me most of the details on this conversion, but it still took some hunting around, and perplexing of the great local NAPA guys, but in the end.. it's all so darn simple!
PARTS:
- T-handle Locking Control - NAPA Part # 731-1104, 9' long, $21.49 list
- 6" or so of #10 bead chain, and two circle connectors - about $1 at the local hardware store (look in the Lamp section)
- One barrel shaped "throttle lock" or "stop" from NAPA - $.75?
The hardest part was getting the whole bead-chain issue worked out.. but, thankfully, I did the legwork on this one, and here's a picture of what it'll look like:
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Notice how the barrel shaped throttle connector is connected to the
"loop" ends by removing the "set screw" and putting the O-connector loop
under the set screw. This is the important part!
- Now, just find a place to mount your new T-handle on the dash (to the right of the column is the stock location). Drill a *small* hole first, then use the right sized bit to fit the locking T-handle. (I'll post the right size after I do this).
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Mount the T-handle, and knock another hole in the firewall. Try for the angled section, there are a few bolts just behind the gas pedal that make locating the hole and such pretty easy.
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Now, route the cable through the hole to the engine bay, and run it up the same path as the gas-pedal throttle cable runs. You will have plenty of extra with the 9' control.
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At this point, remove the entire length of the T-handle inner cable (if you haven't already done so), and cut the outer casing off.. probably just around the stock throttle cable hold-down clamp.
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Then grease the cable, and re-insert through the dash and all the way up.. it may be a bit fun to make it past any kinks (did I mention to avoid kinks in the cable?)
-
Put your O-loop end of the #10 bead chain under the stock throttle cable connector. Then look at the length hanging loose. You need to have enough chain that the gas pedal can go to the floor, and the chain will take up ALL the slack, but no more chain
than necessary.
-
Then push the inner cable up, and with the throttle fully closed, and the
bead chain the right length, run the cable through the "throttle stop"
barrel. Tighten it down. Now cut off the excess.
NOTE: If you look at
the photo, you will see TWO screws on my "throttle stop".. with the
O-loop fastener under the original adjusting screw, I felt it didn't
clamp down tight enough, so I spent another $.03 at the local hardware
store for a new screw that fits into the "throttle stop" from the other
side.
Now you're done. You should be able to use the throttle as usually, with no noticeable difference. BUT, you should also be able to pull your locking T-handle out, twist to lock it, and lock the gas at half-throttle. Then hit the pedal, and you can stil
l "blip' to full throttle. Unlock the T-handle to resume normal operation.
-Tom