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So just what kind of noises would you expect from a shot R&P?
While in Moab in July, about 30 miles out into the desert, I started hearing what sounded like a U-joint about to let go - but they were all tight. Concluded the t'case was out of oil and I'd smoked some bearings, and limped back to town with a rythmic sorta rattling sound.. more prominent when on the throttle and in gear with a load on the drivetrain, went away when coasting down a hill in neutral. Got worse the closer to Moab we got, but made it back and onto the trailer.
So, tonight, I pulled the Dana 20 out and after some grinding on the new one, swapped in a replacement.
While I had the Scout in the shop, I popped the rear diff (last opened a couple years and a couple oil changes ago when I broke a rear axle shaft and had to go fishing) to check on things, and to jack up the rear end and check/adjust the rear drums.
You might recall I found a 4 chipped teeth on the ring gear when I replaced the snapped 'shaft.
I found at least one more new chunk tonight.. along with..
That looks fairly normal.. so let's spin a tire around and check that brake drag..
Woah!!
Now, what I don't know is if it's been like this for some time - maybe even since I last had it opened, but just didn't bother to examine the pinion close enough? Or is this new.. and if it's new.. is THIS the rythmic rattling-like noise I was hearing?
Diff was full of gear lube when I opened it up - checked the fill plug first. It's had plenty of oil..
So.. I'm considering buttoning it back up and going for a spin tomorrow night and see what's what.. if the new t'case resolves the problem, or if I have bigger issues to deal with.
If the rear is toast.. I'm going to have to get a new 4.09 R&P eventually, since this is slated to go under the 800.. so I could just replace it and keep flogging it..
OR.. I have a 4.56 16-sp 60 sitting here, too.. haven't reamed the spindles for 35spliners yet, and I don't have a 4.56 front to go with it, either.. yet..
I do have some 15" 8-hole wheels I could put to use with my 36x12.50 TSLs, though..
On a brighter note, I put on my new plates tonight, too.. with the spiffy PERMANENT sticker.. never have to register it again.
All Pics
---- 11/05 ---
Looks like it was the R&P the whole time. I went for a test drive, and the noise/thunk is still there. Also found out the "new" Dana 20 won't disengage front-wheel-drive.. EVER..
..so now I'm pulling the Dana 20 out to put the original one back in, and I have the rear diff out of the Scout already, and it's time to do the R&P swap.
Upgrading to a rear Lockright while I have it apart, too..
--- 11/12/04
Pulled bearing caps
Carrier out.
Pinion out - yucky housing full of caked on old grease, metal shavings, and other bad stuff from the damage.
I started with a spray-can of brake-cleaner.. then quickly gave up, and just put the entire housing into the parts washer, and proceeded to hook the air-drill up (no sparks, so I don't set the Mineral Spirits on fire) and chucked up a wire-wheel..
the result:
Misc pieces
The damaged pinion:
I have my trusty IH service manual nearby to keep me on the right path..
and the pile of new parts:
That pile includes a new 4.09 R&P, YK bearing and seals and shims kit, new Lockright, new 4.x Dana 44 carrier, and a new Zytanium cross-shaft.
It does NOT include the two new thrust-washers I needed. I have since ordered a few in, and they're in hand.
-Updated Again
OK, the thrust washers I ordered were the wrong parts (pinion gear thrust washers vs side gear thrust washers). I wound up ordering some from Randy's along with a rollpin (oops).. but borrowed a pair of good-used thrust washers from Mike Kelly and installed 'em so I could make some progress.
I assembled the carrier and Lockright and used my vise while torquing the ring-gear bolts to spec with Red Loctite.
I was only able to make one setup bearing for the carrier, since I destroyed one earlier. I also ground the outside of the old pinion bearing inner race to use for a set-up race as well.
Here I've installed the carrier with NO SHIMS and I'm checking total lash in the housing with the dial indicator.
Per the factory instructions, you do this, then install the pinion and repeat, then do some math to come up with the correct shim packs.
I fouled up by really pressing the carrier over, instead of just taking up the slop, so I eventually wound up with way too much preload and zero backlash.. what a mess.. the ultimate solution involved too much trial and error before I got it right.. so much for following directions and making it easy. :D
Pinion yoke holding tool from scrap steel.
Pressing the carrier bearings on. I used the one damaged carrier bearing's inner race as part of the press tool.
To pull the bearings back off of the carrier, I needed a bearing splitter. This one came from Harbor Freight for $15. I wound up replacing the side bolts with Grade 8 hardware after bending them.
I used the press plates standing upright, two hunks of 2x2x.250 angle to press the bearings off. I also put some thick rubber "pucks" on the press table so when the carrier assembly would violently SNAP out of the bearing, it wouldn't SLAM onto the metal table area of the press.
Watch those fingers and toes!
Be sure to crank down tight with the bearing splitter.
Remember I wound up with too much preload?
Here's how I wound up pulling the carrier out that time.
I chained the housing to the legs of my hoist, and used a chain around the carrier to the engine lifting hook and pulled.. then smacked once with my deadblow hammer and POP, out it came.
Finally, after close to a month of on and off wrenching and numerous re-attempts, I got an acceptable pattern.
I borrowed an inch-lbs torque wrench from my father in law on Thanksgiving and set the pinion preload. The preload did change after I replaced my set-up bearing race with the good bearing race. You'll need a torque wrench that shows at least the 0-40 INCH-LBS range to do this.
The side to side adjustments of the carrier also needed adjusted a bit more after replacing the one setup bearing with the good bearing.
I then put everything back together - axle under the Scout, Dana 20 re-replaced, new rear brakes, etc. I also had to upgrade my bump stops, since I'd smashed the old ones..
Old set was 2x2x.120 wall (shown next to the new one).. this one is now 2x2x.250 wall. :D
These bump stops keep the 36s out of the body. Doesn't leave much for up-travel, though.. about 3 fingers width when the frame isn't sitting on jack stands. :(
This is the upper shock mount I built years ago when I first did the rear SOA.. still working out well.
---
We took Tigger on the Christmas Tree run, 12/4/04. It did fine. The locker clicks and pops around town when cornering, but it's supposed to. No real noticable draw backs on the dry roads thus far, and I didn't notice anything too bad on the snowy roads to the trail head, either.
I still can't muscle up much in 2wd, but that's because the rear tires are pretty bald. :D At least they BOTH spin now.. ;)